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How To : Sew Zip Up Pouch

Good morning. Good afternoon. Good evening and good night. Whichever applies to you - welcome! Sophie here - let's get this sewed up!

Image shows a zip up pouch with a rainbow made from yellow pencil with eraser on the end of it as the centre main detail.
Image shows a zip up pouch with a rainbow made from yellow pencil with eraser on the end of it as the centre main detail.

Fortunately, the hard work of measuring and marking this pouch sewing pattern is done for you, and ready to cut out with this fabric panel from us here at Knighton Fabrics! Enthusiastic beginners may be able to complete this project, just make sure to be slow and steady. There are other fabric panels available, but the panel used in this specific set of instructions is here:




The fabric panels do have written instructions on them, but sometimes something more visual is helpful - which is why this blog has been made! Let's start with a "You will need" part of the instructions. - Both "main" zip up pouch pieces from the panel - Both "lining" zip up pouch pieces from the panel - 1 x 12 inch zip ( I tend to use a zip longer than needed to give myself a little extra to hold/work with whilst I sew as I find it less fiddly, you may want to use smaller. ) Thinner zips with plastic teeth are easier to use and less bulky in my experience. - Fusible interfacing (you may want to use fusible fleece or foam for additional structure, too, but this isn't essential.)


Image shows pouch main and lining pieces laid on black fusible interfacing with black dress making scissors on top.
Image shows pouch main and lining pieces laid on black fusible interfacing with black dress making scissors on top.

For the visuals in this instruction blog, I have used black fusible interfacing on both main pieces and both lining pieces (the wrong sides of the fabric). As previously mentioned, you may also want to use either fusible foam or fleece to add structure. Simply use the main pieces as a template to cut 2 pieces. But this is not essential to complete the pouch!


If you chose not to add any fusible interfacing, fusible fleece or fusible foam, you will just have these:


Image shows main pattern pieces, lining pieces and a black zip with silver teeth and zip pull laid on top.
Image shows main pattern pieces, lining pieces and a black zip with silver teeth and zip pull laid on top.

  • 1 - Take a "main", a "lining" and the zipper and sandwich the fabrics so that your "main" is the right side up, your zip is the right side down, and your "lining" is the right side down. Pin/clip together along the top edge. If you use a zipper foot, attach it now.



Image shows main fabric right sides up, with zipper on top facing down, and the lining right side down on top of that.
Image shows main fabric right sides up, with zipper on top facing down, and the lining right side down on top of that.

This photo is simply a visual to show the layer order of the sandwiching of the fabrics and the zipper. This includes the fabric side up and the zipper side up. I tend to use a longer zip so that it hangs over the edge and stays out of my way when sewing. This is not pinned or clipped into place in this exact image, only to show layer order.



Image shows main fabric with zipper and the lining sandwiched together and clipped into place.
Image shows main fabric with zipper and the lining sandwiched together and clipped into place.

Your fabric sandwiched layers will look like when clipped (or pinned if you'd rather) into place along the top edge of the main and lining fabric pieces. You may have another layer if you've added fleece or foam interfacing.





  • 2 - Straight stitch your layers together, making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. I don't use a zipper foot attachment, so I sew slowly feeling for the edge of the zipper teeth under the fabric as I go to keep everything lined up.

Image shows machine sewing the sandwiched fabrics and zip together, feeling for the zipper teeth.
Image shows machine sewing the sandwiched fabrics and zip together, feeling for the zipper teeth.

You can see the end of the zip hanging just off the edge of the fabric and I'm feeling my way for the zipper teeth under the fabric. If you don't have a zipper foot and your machine is capable, you can adjust your needle placement to sew closer to the zipper teeth.



Image shows the stitches in this step completed and the seam created.
Image shows the stitches in this step completed and the seam created.

  • 3 - Repeat steps labelled 1 & 2 for the other edge of the zip. This can be more fiddly as the zip is now already attached to the other fabric pieces.

Image shows the bottom edge of remaining fabric towards the zipper - this is the incorrect way.
Image shows the bottom edge of remaining fabric towards the zipper - this is the incorrect way.

INCORRECT WAY: Make sure you attach the top edge of the fabrics to the remaining zip edge, it's easy to sew the bottom to the zipper edge by mistake. DO NOT ALIGN THE BOTTOM WITH THE ZIPPER EDGE LIKE THE PHOTO TO THE LEFT. I made that mistake for you in advance. You're welcome!

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Image demonstrates the correct sandwiching of the remaining main and lining fabric and zip.
Image demonstrates the correct sandwiching of the remaining main and lining fabric and zip.

CORRECT WAY: Sandwiching the remaining fabric pieces with the zip will look like this when correctly done for this side! You can just see the lining fabric on the right side of the zip. The other remaining lining fabric goes right side down on top of the zip, that is facing down. The remaining main fabric is right side up on the bottom of the sandwich.


  • 4 - Open out and heat press the folds down - be careful you don't melt the zip! Then topstitch each side. This stops the fabric from being bunched up in the zip when in use.

Image shows the project opened out flat once heat pressed being machine sewn topstitched at the zip edge.
Image shows the project opened out flat once heat pressed being machine sewn topstitched at the zip edge.

Stitch Length:

Increase your stitch length to 3-4mm for a bolder, more pronounced topstitch. Tension: Test your tension on a scrap of fabric to ensure it's balanced and doesn't pull the bobbin thread to the right side or vice versa. 




Once topstitched, your project will look something like this:


Image shows the project laid flat right sides up with the top stitching either side of the zip visible.
Image shows the project laid flat right sides up with the top stitching either side of the zip visible.

  • 5 - Pin/clip the bottom edges of the "main" fabrics right sides together. At the other end of the project, pin the bottom edges of the "lining" fabrics right sides together. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew across those bottom edges. IMPORTANT - On the "lining" fabrics end, make sure you leave a gap of four to five inches wide for turning your project right sides out later on.

Image shows the project at its current step with the bottom of the "main" and "lining" fabrics clipped together.
Image shows the project at its current step with the bottom of the "main" and "lining" fabrics clipped together.

The edges all align perfectly and you can see the zipper ends that extend longer then the project fabric in the centre.


Make sure you mark with either tailors chalk, pen or specific coloured clips that gap you will not be sewing at the lining fabric side.




Image shows the project on the sewing machine with fingers showing the centre space of where not to sew and leave a gap.
Image shows the project on the sewing machine with fingers showing the centre space of where not to sew and leave a gap.

Making the four to five inch gap in the "lining" fabric end of your project is easier if you leave it in the centre, for turning the project right side out later. If you don't leave a big enough gap, it makes for a more difficult step to turn the project right sides out.




Image shows the project with the ends now sewn with the gap visibly being held open to show placement.
Image shows the project with the ends now sewn with the gap visibly being held open to show placement.

Heat press the seams and keep the zip open (half way is usually enough), but that your zip pull isn't hanging outside of the pouch edges.



  • 6 - Pin the side edges (not the cut corners, just the sides). Sew from one end to the other with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, back stitching at the beginning and end.

Image shows the zipper with it's teeth angled towards the pouch "lining" fabric.
Image shows the zipper with it's teeth angled towards the pouch "lining" fabric.

TIPS: When you get to the zipper, ensure that the teeth are facing the pouch "lining" fabric. I also find going over the zipper a few times helps to secure it in place.









Image shows the project laid flat on a green cutting mat.
Image shows the project laid flat on a green cutting mat.

If you lay your project out as shown right you should now have: - top, bottom, left and right sewn. Seam where the zip is in the centre.


However there should be a gap in the bottom of the section where the pouch "lining" is. The cut-out corners should also be unsewn at this point.


Image shows the cut out corner being opened
Image shows the cut out corner being opened
Image shows the cut out corner seams aligning ready to be clipped/pinned into place.
Image shows the cut out corner seams aligning ready to be clipped/pinned into place.

  • 7 - Match up the bottom seam with the side seam, right sides together, in any of the corners.

    Line them up and pin/clip them so that they don't move out of place. Notice the side seam and the bottom seam placement in the image to the left.

Image shows the cutout corners being sewn using a sewing machine.
Image shows the cutout corners being sewn using a sewing machine.

Stitch across with 1/4 inch seam allowance, and backstitch. Do this for the other three corners, too. You can if you want to, go over these stitches to secure them a little. They will after all bare the weight of whatever goes inside the pouch! When the corners are sewn, your project will look something like this (note that the zip still overhangs the project and the zip is half way open inside the project).

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8 - Using the gap we left at the bottom of the "lining" fabric, put your hand inside the gap and pull everything right side out through the gap. You may find once your hand is inside that unzipping the bag further helps you to turn right sides out more easily. You can leave the gap to turn right side out on the "main" fabric instead of the "lining" if you want to, the handsewn closing gap may just be more visible as it will be on the outside of the pouch.

Image shows the gap opened up ready to be pulled right side out by putting your hand inside.
Image shows the gap opened up ready to be pulled right side out by putting your hand inside.

This is why it's important to get a big enough gap left so that there is enough room to pull through the fabric from inside to turn your pouch the right side out. Once right side out you can put your hand inside to sharpen the corners with your fingers.

9 - Tuck the raw edges of the gap in the lining (or main depending where you left your gap), pin or clip into place then hand sew the gap shut using a ladder stitch/invisible stitch.

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CONGRATULATIONS! You're all done. You made it! You made that wonderful, fully lined zip up pouch right in front of you! I hope you're proud of yourself - you deserve it! We'd love to see your makes over at the Knighton Fabrics Community group on Facebook! Have the most wonderful day! Sophie Team Knighton Fabrics

 
 
 

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